CellarTales International Wineroundtable Edition No.7 Part III

Officially Australia has the reputation of producing mainly heavy, very concentrated red wines. Shiraz first of all. Detractors may even talk about the famous “marmalade wines”. Beside the fact that I don’t appreciate such general prejudices it’s more than clear that the range of Australian wines is much wider. Ever tried a Rhine-Riesling from this country ? Or a Port-styled dessert wine ? Or a Pinot Noir ? In the latter case I have been really curious to try an Australian interpretation of this pretentious variety. Unfortunately the wine satisfied all the prejudices I mentioned in the beginning. After opening the bottle a clear but veeery intense, ruby red wine poured in our glasses. I know that in our days even a Pinot Noir has to have a very strong color and with modern technology and knowledge it’s also possible to obtain that. But lately with the first whiff it became clear with what kind of Pinot we were dealing here. The nose was intensely dominated by new wood with a lot of vanilla beans, charcoal, tobacco and cinnamon. With some more air also very sweetish notes of black berries, liquorice and chocolate biscuits joined this very concentrated, slaying bouquet. At the palate the “sweetish” show continued with a lot of not yet integrated tannins (mainly from oak) and a Pinot typical bold acidity trying to structure this “Hulk” until its very long aftertaste . But there was no chance to give this fellow the necessary equilibrium So in the end we remained with a proper vinified but absolutely overpowered, hefty wine. Concerning Pinot Noir at least my personal expectations are different.

Since longer time Oregon isn’t anymore just an insiders’ tip for classy Pinot Noir wines. But for what poured now in our glasses the word “contrast” is just a very inadequate description. A much lighter but very bright and typical carmine color in coincidence with a blue print of a Pinot Noir perfume showed us a classic, untouched and pure version of this variety and because of what it’s so appreciated Very elegant with a lot of red fruit combined with soft earthy scents and sustained by an almost minty freshness. Another wine I could smell for hours. In the mouth still very young, crisp with a very mineral acidity and still a bit angular but ripe tannins. Its good pressure remained until the medium, minty finish. It’s simply fun to drink such wines. Not saturating but animating and so the bottle empties in no time. This wine has everything I want from a Pinot and still holds for many years more. And that’s just their entry level … Anyway, simply great stuff !!

Another very typical Representative of both – the country and the variety. It is impressive what the Kiwis are capable to do with such a small, total surface of vineyards (ca.30.000 hectares). Who is on the search for a well balanced, very clean and fruity Pinot Noir shouldn’t have any problems to strike it rich in NZ. Best example ? The present one ! Clear, garnet red color and a seductive nose of red berries, strawberries (with cream), red currant and some cherry liqueur. A very fruit based bouquet and therefore perhaps a little bit to one dimensional for some wine geeks. But that means to complain on a very high level because also the palate is indeed more on the “easy-drinking” side with its smooth tannins and the good integrated acidity but until the good and soft spiced aftertaste the wine never becomes boring but remains smooth and flattering. Not this “over the top” like the Scotchmans and not this uncompromisingly straight like the Erath. Simply a nice made Pinot Noir and a good choice for all who just want to drink a good, honest wine without going too deep into it.

The next victim of a cork taint/defect. Sweaty, moldy, oxidized …. and for all those who still believe that a cork taint or a creeping cork defect can easily be detected by smelling the stoppers – this one has been in an excellent shape and without any bad smells. Tough luck – I know the wines and what the winery is capable of … it’s simply annoying !!

Like in almost every European country 2003 was also in Germany a rather hot and dry year and most of the formerly ridiculous hyped wines went already the way of all flesh. Joyfully this one was none of those but its dark garnet red color with a soft turbidity gave also witness of very ripe or even partial overripe grapes. So did the nose. In the beginning Frankonian Pinot Noir after the book but with more time also here with slight scents of “cooked” jam, lacking a bit the freshness, complexity and weightless elegance from other Pinots out of other vintages. At the palate the wine showed a very compact and still bold tannin structure with a healthy acidity and a good pressure until the soft alcohol influenced aftertaste. Here once again you cannot deny the year but it became better and more equilibrated with more aeration. A good and for the year even very good German Spätburgunder which shouldn’t be stored anymore for too many years.

“Grosses Gewächs” is the German equivalent (or at least should be) to the French “Grand cru”. This together with a renowned producer should be a trustable warranty of a nice wine experience, shouldn’t it ? No, not inconclusively but let’s take one thing at a time. With a light vermilion red already the color of the wine appeared rather aged and the diluted, almost yellow margin wasn’t a good sign either for a wine this age. Shortly after opening the bottle, an unpleasant smell of sweat and bad eggs (sulfur) covered and choked off the rest of the bouquet. Well, for me a stinking Pinot isn’t something to be immediately scared about because normal those “Burgundy-stinkers” disappear rather quickly if they are coming in contact with air. But here I got my doubts right from the start. Anyway. Extensively aeration was indicated. After a little bit more than one hour the smell improved noticeable but remained still far away of being sound. In the mouth the taste reveal very harsh, astringent tannins and a metallic, hard acidity. The short and bitter finish crowned this sad story. I cannot prove it but it seemed to me that we were dealing here with a bottle which has been “cooked” for a couple of years in the shops’ rack or even in a shop window Very disappointing …

Givry is still a very good place to make some “steals” concerning burgundy Pinot Noir because unlike the Côte de Nuit the prices still remained a little bit more civilized. The 2002 vintage is considered as very good one and also Joblot is a very popular producer. The wine showed a typical carmine red color with a soft turbidity and after a short catch of breath the nose offered plenty of red berries and red currant combined with wilder scents of leather and fresh ploughed clay plus herbal, spicy notes of nutmeg, sage and soft caramel Well defined, complex, harmonious and distinctively better than the first bottle of this wine, which we have had half a year ago. Unfortunately the taste wasn’t able to keep up the pace. It reminded me immediately on the already mentioned first bottle with its steely, hard acidity and those still very harsh, rough tannins. Also the finish has been very disjointed and unbalanced. There was nothing to win today also with more time of aeration. The wine’s still in a very difficult phase and I wonder how long it will take to integrate this acidity and to soften those tannins. We will see. At least the smell already improved in a very good way …

The last wine of the tasting and for me together with the Erath Pinot Noir the wine of the evening. Unlike the German “Grand cru” this has been a “Grosses Gewächs” indeed. Still very young with a youthful, deep garnet red color and a nose, which became better and more complex every minute. Surprisingly clean without any “cooked” or “heated” attributes, although with a nice balance between red fruit, spiciness and minerality. The beauty of this wine wasn’t the intensity of flavors like for example the Nautilus Pinot showed. It was the genius composition of all the smells and scents this wine has had to offer. One completed the other. Like a classic piece of Tchaikovsky or Grieg. Soft and smooth yet also powerful and demanding. But never loud or unbalanced, never rashly or uncontrolled. The palate with its strong but smooth pressure supported by a pure and juicy acidity, interwoven and structured by ripe, very fine grained tannins ended in a great final with a very long aftertaste. Nothing concerning this wine appeared put-on or artificial. Simply a wine with dignity and grandeur which has all the preconditions to develop in a very good way the coming years. Excellent !!